Road riding in the winter comes with extra challenges, especially with colder weather and shorter days. But if you can find the motivation to get outside, and can figure out how to stay warm, it can be incredibly rewarding. Check out these tips to make your next winter ride better.
Choosing the right clothing to wear for the conditions makes the difference between a fun winter ride and a miserable one. Check the forecast for where you will be riding. What temperatures are expected throughout your ride? Will it be dry or will it be wet due to rain or snow? Will it be calm or windy?
Then dress in layers for those conditions. First, don a highly breathable synthetic or wool base layer. Then add one or more layers for insulation. Finally, top it off with a wind and/or waterproof jacket. Note that most waterproof jackets aren’t very breathable, despite any marketing to the contrary, so go with just a wind-blocking layer if conditions will be dry.
If you expect to ride frequently in cold weather, it’s worth investing in proper winter riding clothing and accessories.
When riding in extreme cold, always bring a spare layer or two. If something happens – like a mechanical or crash – you may have to stop riding for a period of time during which your core temperature will drop quickly due to the lack of movement. If there is a threat of precipitation, make sure you have a spare waterproof layer like a rain jacket.
Take the time to stop and adjust which layers you’re wearing as needed. Remove layers on climbs to keep from overheating and add layers ahead of descents to stay warm. When you wear too many layers, your sweat will quickly drench your clothes, which puts you at risk for feeling much colder the rest of the ride.
Get extra motivation by making riding dates with friends.
Keep your extremities warm
When your hands, feet and head stay warm, you will feel warmer overall. Buy yourself some truly effective gloves and winter cycling shoes. If you notice your hands and feet getting tingly and going numb during rides, your gloves and shoes are not warm enough. Avoid getting frostbite so you don’t permanently damage the circulation in your extremities.
You lose a lot of heat through your head so simply putting on ear covers, a hat or a balaclava can help you keep more heat to yourself.
Be seen and be safe
Winter means shorter days and lower levels of light. That means drivers are less likely to see you. Wear brightly colored and reflective outer layers for better visibility and consider adding a flashing rear blinking light and/or a headlight to your bike.
If it’s darker out, ride with glasses that have lenses that are lightly tinted or clear. You’ll be able to see better.
If you ride where it’s cold and wet enough for ice and snow, always be on the lookout, especially around blind corners or in the shade where ice may take more time to melt even as ambient temperatures rise above freezing.
Be flexible with your riding plans
Give your body extra time to warm up before pedalling hard on winter rides. If it’s very cold, consider doing a shorter ride or riding at a higher intensity so you produce more heat to keep yourself warm.
Adjust your route to pick roads with less wind exposure or stay at lower elevations. Or time your ride so you’re out at the warmest part of the day.
Bring a friend
Sometimes the hardest part of winter riding is finding the motivation to get out the door. Get extra motivation by making riding dates with friends. Knowing you have to meet your riding buddy at a certain location and time will make you less likely to bail. And you can even reward yourselves for getting out there together by stopping for a cup of warm coffee or tea at the end of your ride.
(or “Is Mountain Biking Harder Than Road Cycling?”)
To be good at anything you do, you have to have a clear purpose, therefore training has to have purpose. In mountain biking, that purpose is to improve your ability to power through and recover from the frequent hard efforts required by riding off-road. Training with a power meter will enable you to become stronger, faster, and fitter, which – when combined with superior technical skills, will make you an almost lethal mountain biker. Having a tool to measure, analyze, monitor and manage your training and racing will prepare you for known challenges and even ones that are unexpected, like wet sand and mud.
Like they say in the video, every mountain biker wants to get fitter, ride faster, and to make it easier. But the truth is, it’s never going to get easier, but if you follow the four steps listed below, you just get better.
Measure – most power meters are designed to calculate power and cadence, which are indicators of your fitness. Many power meters also measure pedal smoothness and torque effectiveness, which indicate how efficiently you pedal or, put another way, how much energy you are wasting if your pedal stroke isn’t optimized. The data that’s collected by a power meter is then exported to a .fit file, which can be read by a variety of applications specifically intended to crunch sport-performance data*. Or, you can simply email your .fit file to your coach, who can interpret your data to help you reach and hold you accountable to your goals.
Analyze – Once you’ve measured your performance – or collected data, you can analyze your data to see where your strengths and weaknesses are with respect to you as a rider, your bike, and influential circumstances (environmental, physical, technical, tactical, and psychological).
Monitor – You can leverage your data to track – or monitor – your performance, which is subject to training intensity, pacing, stress, nutrition, overtraining, and fatigue.
Manage – Your accumulated data tells you how to monitor your performance in the moment; now you can set long-term goals and manage your performance to achieve those goals.
“Training with a power meter is like having an onboard coach and test lab that gives you constant diagnostic feedback with which to make adjustments to your biomechanics on the bike, and to prevent injuries,” said Hicham Mar, elite cycling coach at the American Sport Training Center. “Your data is an honest account of your output, no matter if it’s windy, hot, or steep, and of your energy levels – how many calories you are burning and how many you need to consume to maintain your pace. This is especially important in mountain biking because riding terrain varies so dramatically from one area to another, that the only way to control the variables is to know how much power you’re capable of sustaining.”
Perception and “riding by feel” are not accurate indicators of sport performance and, while technical prowess can be a temporary substitute for fitness in mountain biking, improved output is the ultimate advantage to outperforming your rivals but more importantly, yourself. To be a better rider than you were yesterday, or the day before, understanding how you can improve will help you become a smarter cyclist.
*ROTOR has partnered with TrainingPeaks.com, which has provided a 4-week training plan plus 30 days of TrainingPeaks Premium to owners of INpower and 2INpower, (home.trainingpeaks.com/ROTOR)
Switching from using round chainrings to ROTOR’s Q-Rings is easy, but it does require some initial setup followed by a transition period for full adaptation.
Optimum Chainring Position (OCP) is what allows you to vary the rotational position of a Q-Ring, thereby enabling you to adjust it to the precise point where you deliver maximum power during a single pedal rotation.
ROTOR suggests the following initial OCP setups by discipline:
- Road: Position 3
- Triathlon and TT: Position 4
- MTB: Position 2
Because Q-Rings use leg muscles differently than round chainrings, your muscles will need time to adapt to the new, more efficient way of pedalling. Adaptation is a gradual process covering four stages with each stage taking between one day and one week. Most riders will require at least 10 hours of pedalling time to make the full transition.
In stage 1, you will learn to pedal more efficiently. Pedalling may initially feel different, and you may find yourself turning the pedals at a faster or slower rate than your usual cadence. Don’t worry about any initial jerkiness – it will smooth out over time.
You will start to feel more capable and more powerful in stage 2, and your spin will improve on climbs. Many who suffer knee pain will start to notice it less – assuming their OCP is correctly adjusted.
Stage 3 + 4
Stage 3 will bring improved biomechanical efficiency, which produces a smoother pedal stroke due to fuller activation of muscle groups. You will be creating more power than with round chainrings. If you experience no issues during this stage, you have correctly set your OCP and are onto Stage 4 of adaptation. Those encountering issues should read on for further OCP setting instructions.
If you experience the following symptoms, you are arriving at the max chainring diameter too late because your OCP number is too big, and you should reduce your OCP by one setting:
- You accelerate and sprint easily, but have difficulty maintaining speed.
- You feel pedalling resistance too late in your pedal stroke and/or you are hyperextending your ankle.
- You need a lower cadence to be comfortable.
- Your sit further forward than usual to pedal comfortably.
- You are comfortable pedalling while standing, but not while seated.
- You have new pain at the back of your leg behind your knee.
On the other hand, if your OCP is set too low, you will find yourself arriving at the max chainring diameter too soon during your pedal stroke. You should increase your OCP setting by one if you experience the following:
- You find it easy to maintain a steady speed but have difficulty accelerating and sprinting.
- You feel pedalling resistance too early in your pedal stroke and/or you are hyperflexing your ankle.
- You need a higher cadence to be comfortable.
- You sit further back than usual to pedal comfortably.
- You are comfortable pedalling while seated, but not while standing.
- You have a new pain at the front of your knee.
Once you’ve got your OCP correctly adjusted, it’s time for stage 4 and final adaptation, which comes naturally with more cumulative pedalling time using Q-Rings.
A few final setup notes
Different bikes may need different OCPs – don’t assume you will use the same position on each of your bikes.
Adjacent chainrings in multi-ring setups may require different OCP’s.
Road Q-Rings and QXL have five OCP points while MTB Q-Rings have three OCP points.
If you are using a Micro Adjust Spider (MAS), your number of OCP points is effectively doubled because it reduces the angle between OCP points by 2.5 degrees, thereby offering micro adjustments. In this case, you should adjust your OCP in 1/2-step increments.
This post published courtesy of Training Peaks. For more articles, please visit TrainingPeaks.com/blog
As summer winds down, many cyclists still have plenty of fitness but lack a main goal to prepare for. Coach O’Brien Forbes has three ways you can make the most of your fitness this fall and prepare for next season.
ROTOR Q-Rings are the famous oval chainrings manufactured by the Spanish company. In this article we are going to explain step by step how to install a set of ROTOR Q-Rings. These chainrings will make your pedal stroke much more effective. It can be used in road, MTB, cyclocross and triathlon bikes.
Fitting Rotor Q-Rings is quite simple. These oval chainrings for road, MTB, cyclocross and triathlon bikes can be used with almost all kind of crank arms. After some simple steps you will have them installed in your bike.
First thing you must do is to choose your Q-Rings properly. So, for road bikes there are five models, for mountain bikes are models which can be used with one, two or three chainrings, there are two models for cyclocross and if you are a triathlon enthusiast you can choose between Q-Rings TT or QXL. Downhill bike’s enthusiasts are also covered. On this link you can see the characteristic of all the oval Q-Rings chainrings for the different specialties.
Almost certainly you can use the crank arms that already have on your bike and with a little knowledge and the right tools can install them yourself in a simple way.
Remove the right crank arm to work more comfortably and then take apart the chainrings from your bike using an allen key so we can put the new ROTOR Q-Rings. Your new chainrings have different settings so you can find the perfect pedalling position. This is known as OCP or “Optimized Chainring Position”, the best way to place the chainring. We recommend trying in the position 3 and taking it from there… In the Q-Rings owner’s manual there are many examples to show you how to make these tests. First we install the bigger chainring and then the rest, assuming our bike has more than one. All of them go in the same OCP position. If necessary apply in the screws a permanent locking that you will find in hardware stores.
We will finish this part of the ROTOR Q-Rings assembly putting back the right crank arm, using a torque wrench to achieve the right tightening.
You must also place the shifter in the highest part of the ROTOR Q-Rings, that is between 1 and 3mm. Then make sure the shifter works properly switching from one chainring to the other.
Now try different settings with the OCP until you find the ideal position. Remember, when you purchase your new ROTOR Q-Rings you will find attached a lot of valuable and useful information.
Many ROTOR Q-Rings users have some doubts about whether the chain suffers or it will experience some problems due to the oval shape of the chainrings.
If you take a look at the ROTOR Q-Rings chainwheels you will see that the chain has to adapt constantly to the oval shape. The whole system has been designed to this purpose, so the chain does not jump unexpectedly, no even when shifting.
When assembling the Q-Rings chainrings we advise you to place the shifter in the highest part of the oval. This is the key to have the system working smoothly when switching chainwheels. Before going out for the first time make sure that everything works correctly.
You must never use ROTOR Q-Rings with a worn chain or in poor condition. This is part of the regular maintenance of your bike. The chain must be clean and well kept. Always use a good chain lubricant to improve the horizontal movement needed to change gears.
Last but not least, check the rear sprockets. If they are worn out replace them.
With the powertrain clean and in good order, the Q-Rings chainrings work just like regular chainwheels, only that you will benefit from a much more powerful and effective pedal stroke.